Homemade wine guide
Stuck Fermentation: How to Diagnose and Restart It
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A wine fermentation is stuck when the hydrometer reading stops falling while there is still sugar left, typically somewhere above 1.000 for a wine meant to finish dry. Before you treat it, confirm it with two readings a few days apart, because a quiet airlock on its own proves nothing. Then work through the fixes from simplest to hardest: warm the wine to around 68 to 70°F, rouse the yeast, add yeast nutrient, and if nothing changes in about two days, restart it with a strong, alcohol-tolerant yeast such as Lalvin EC-1118, added step by step.
The sequence here follows Bob Peak’s WineMaker Magazine guide Restart Stuck Fermentations, whose full restart is adapted from a Scott Laboratories protocol, scaled down for home batches.
Is Your Fermentation Really Stuck?
Most “stuck” fermentations that home winemakers ask about are not stuck at all.
| What you see | Hydrometer says | What it means |
|---|---|---|
| No airlock bubbles | Still dropping between readings | Not stuck. The lid or bung is leaking gas, or the ferment is just slow |
| No airlock bubbles | About 0.990 to 0.998 and steady | Finished. A dry wine has used up its sugar |
| Slow bubbles | Falling a little each day | Sluggish, not stuck. Warm it and rouse the yeast |
| No change for several days | Steady above about 1.000 to 1.010 | Stuck, if the recipe was meant to finish dry |
WineMaker’s test for a juice or carboy fermentation is the same: if bubbles stop and the hydrometer shows sugar remaining, you are stuck. Take readings two or three days apart; our guide on how to use a hydrometer covers the method and temperature correction. Typical timings are in how long wine takes to ferment.
What Causes a Stuck Fermentation
| Cause | Clues | First fix |
|---|---|---|
| Too cold | Cool room, slow start or slow finish | Warm slowly to the yeast’s range |
| Too hot | Fast, foamy start that stalls | Cool slowly, then consider re-pitching |
| Not enough yeast nutrient | Rotten egg smell while it slows | Add yeast nutrient |
| Too much sulfite at the start | Never really starts | Aerate, wait, then re-pitch |
| Too much sugar for the yeast | Very high starting gravity; stalls late with sweet wine | Full restart with an alcohol-tolerant yeast |
| Wild yeast giving up | No yeast added, stalls part way | Full restart with a commercial strain |
Temperature
Every yeast has a working range. WineMaker notes that some strains manage around 50°F while others need about 68°F to thrive, and that very warm fermentations can slow, stop or kill the yeast. Wine kit makers such as Winexpert ask you to keep the fermentation area between 68 and 77°F for the whole process. The Lalvin EC-1118 product sheet gives that strain a range of 50 to 86°F (10 to 30°C).
Nutrients
According to WineMaker, the most common nutrient problem is a shortage of nitrogen the yeast can use, and a stressed, hungry yeast often gives itself away with a rotten egg smell of hydrogen sulfide. Fruit wines are more prone to this than grape wines, which is why most fruit wine recipes add yeast nutrient at the start.
Sugar and alcohol
The most common reason for a stall late in fermentation is alcohol. If the must started with more sugar than the yeast can turn into alcohol, it stops with sugar left. WineMaker suggests checking any must above about 24°Brix (a gravity of roughly 1.100) against the yeast’s alcohol tolerance before you pitch, and diluting with water if needed. Our guide on how to make wine stronger covers yeast alcohol limits, and the sugar calculator helps you avoid overshooting.
How to Fix a Stuck Fermentation: Start Simple
1. Warm it up, slowly
Move the fermenter to a room at about 68 to 70°F, or wrap it, and let it warm over a day. WineMaker warns against warming or cooling quickly, which can further damage the yeast that is still alive. If it starts again, leave it alone.
2. Rouse the yeast
For a sluggish carboy fermentation, WineMaker suggests removing the airlock and swirling the carboy or stirring with a sanitized spoon to get the yeast back into suspension. Early in fermentation, a little air helps, because yeast needs oxygen to grow.
3. Add yeast nutrient
WineMaker gives diammonium phosphate (DAP) at about 1 gram per gallon, or a complete nutrient such as Fermaid K or Fermaid O at 1 to 2 grams per gallon. Fermentation should pick up within a day if nitrogen was the problem. Use less late in fermentation, when there is little sugar left for the yeast to use it on.
4. Re-pitch if it was a cold or sulfite problem
If warming did not wake it, WineMaker says it is usually safe to add a fresh pack of the same yeast. If there is still no activity after about two days, move to the full restart.
How to Restart a Stuck Fermentation (Full Restart)
When alcohol, wild yeast or toxins from the first fermentation are to blame, dropping a fresh packet into the wine rarely works, because new yeast cannot cope with alcohol it has not adapted to. The full restart builds a small, vigorous starter and feeds it the stuck wine in stages. These are WineMaker’s rates, with our arithmetic for 1 and 5 gallon batches.
| Step | Rate | 1 gallon | 5 gallons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Yeast hulls, 24 to 48 hours before (optional), then rack off | 1 g/gal | 1 g | 5 g |
| Complete nutrient into the stuck wine (only if above about 3°Brix, roughly 1.012) | 0.5 g/gal | 0.5 g | 2.5 g |
| Restart container: stuck wine plus an equal amount of unchlorinated water | 5% of volume each | about 6 oz of each | 1 quart of each |
| Go-Ferm rehydration nutrient, in 20 times its weight of 110°F water, cooled to 104°F | 1.25 g/gal | 1.25 g in 25 mL | 6.25 g in 125 mL |
| EC-1118 or another alcohol-tolerant yeast, stirred into the Go-Ferm water, 15 to 20 minutes | 1 g/gal | 1 g | 5 g (one 5 g sachet) |
- Check that the yeast mixture and the restart container are within 18°F (10°C) of each other; if not, add a little of the restart mixture to the yeast and stir.
- Stir the yeast into the restart container and wait 20 to 30 minutes.
- Add stuck wine equal to 10% of the batch to the container. Wait 20 to 30 minutes.
- Add 20% of the batch. Wait 20 to 30 minutes. Repeat three more times.
- Add the rest of the stuck wine, fit the airlock, and keep it warm.
EC-1118 is the yeast WineMaker names alongside Uvaferm 43 for this job; Lallemand lists its alcohol tolerance at 18%. Our wine yeast guide compares it with other strains.
| Restart supply | Lalvin EC-1118 Wine Yeast, 10 pack Editor's Choice | Fermax Yeast Nutrient, 1 lb | Fermaid O Yeast Nutrient, 2 oz | North Mountain Supply Go-Ferm, 3 oz |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Product | | | | |
| Job in a restart | Restart yeast | Nutrient for the stuck wine | Complete organic nutrient | Rehydration nutrient for the restart yeast |
| Maker's rate | 5 g sachets | 1 tsp per gallon before fermentation | 20 g/hL twice during fermentation | See jar |
| Key fact | Alcohol tolerance 18% (Lallemand) | Improves speed and completeness of fermentation (maker) | Yeast-derived organic nitrogen, no DAP (maker) | Helps a faster start and fewer sulfur smells (maker) |
| Price tier | $ | $ | $ | $ |
| Buy | Check price | Check price | Check price | Check price |
Editor's Choice
Lalvin EC-1118 Wine Yeast, 10 pack
- Job in a restart
- Restart yeast
- Maker's rate
- 5 g sachets
- Key fact
- Alcohol tolerance 18% (Lallemand)
- Price tier
- $
Fermax Yeast Nutrient, 1 lb
- Job in a restart
- Nutrient for the stuck wine
- Maker's rate
- 1 tsp per gallon before fermentation
- Key fact
- Improves speed and completeness of fermentation (maker)
- Price tier
- $
Fermaid O Yeast Nutrient, 2 oz
- Job in a restart
- Complete organic nutrient
- Maker's rate
- 20 g/hL twice during fermentation
- Key fact
- Yeast-derived organic nitrogen, no DAP (maker)
- Price tier
- $
North Mountain Supply Go-Ferm, 3 oz
- Job in a restart
- Rehydration nutrient for the restart yeast
- Maker's rate
- See jar
- Key fact
- Helps a faster start and fewer sulfur smells (maker)
- Price tier
- $
How to Prevent a Stuck Fermentation
- Measure the starting gravity and match it to your yeast’s alcohol tolerance.
- Keep the temperature steady in the yeast’s range; avoid cold garages and sunny windows.
- Add yeast nutrient to fruit and honey musts, which are often short of it.
- Wait 24 hours after sulfiting fresh fruit before adding the yeast; see our Campden tablet guide.
- Pitch a healthy dose of cultured wine yeast, rehydrated as the packet says, rather than relying on wild yeast.
Keep these on hand
A spare sachet of EC-1118 and a jar of nutrient fix most stalled batches; Go-Ferm is for a full restart.
-
1Restart yeast
Lalvin EC-1118 Wine Yeast, 10 pack
A vigorous strain with an 18% alcohol tolerance per Lallemand, and the one WineMaker names for restarts.
-
2Yeast nutrient
A general yeast nutrient; the listing gives 1 teaspoon per gallon before fermentation begins.
-
3Rehydration nutrient
North Mountain Supply Go-Ferm, 3 oz
The rehydration nutrient used in the full restart protocol, for building a strong starter.
-
4Hydrometer
Brewer's Elite Hydrometer and Test Jar
The only reliable way to tell a stuck fermentation from a finished one.