Homemade wine guide

Stuck Fermentation: How to Diagnose and Restart It

By The MyHomeWine Team · Updated

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A one-gallon glass jug of amber fermenting liquid fitted with an airlock and a handwritten batch tag
On this page
  1. Is Your Fermentation Really Stuck?
  2. What Causes a Stuck Fermentation
  3. How to Fix a Stuck Fermentation: Start Simple
  4. How to Restart a Stuck Fermentation (Full Restart)
  5. How to Prevent a Stuck Fermentation

A wine fermentation is stuck when the hydrometer reading stops falling while there is still sugar left, typically somewhere above 1.000 for a wine meant to finish dry. Before you treat it, confirm it with two readings a few days apart, because a quiet airlock on its own proves nothing. Then work through the fixes from simplest to hardest: warm the wine to around 68 to 70°F, rouse the yeast, add yeast nutrient, and if nothing changes in about two days, restart it with a strong, alcohol-tolerant yeast such as Lalvin EC-1118, added step by step.

The sequence here follows Bob Peak’s WineMaker Magazine guide Restart Stuck Fermentations, whose full restart is adapted from a Scott Laboratories protocol, scaled down for home batches.

Is Your Fermentation Really Stuck?

Most “stuck” fermentations that home winemakers ask about are not stuck at all.

What you seeHydrometer saysWhat it means
No airlock bubblesStill dropping between readingsNot stuck. The lid or bung is leaking gas, or the ferment is just slow
No airlock bubblesAbout 0.990 to 0.998 and steadyFinished. A dry wine has used up its sugar
Slow bubblesFalling a little each daySluggish, not stuck. Warm it and rouse the yeast
No change for several daysSteady above about 1.000 to 1.010Stuck, if the recipe was meant to finish dry

WineMaker’s test for a juice or carboy fermentation is the same: if bubbles stop and the hydrometer shows sugar remaining, you are stuck. Take readings two or three days apart; our guide on how to use a hydrometer covers the method and temperature correction. Typical timings are in how long wine takes to ferment.

What Causes a Stuck Fermentation

CauseCluesFirst fix
Too coldCool room, slow start or slow finishWarm slowly to the yeast’s range
Too hotFast, foamy start that stallsCool slowly, then consider re-pitching
Not enough yeast nutrientRotten egg smell while it slowsAdd yeast nutrient
Too much sulfite at the startNever really startsAerate, wait, then re-pitch
Too much sugar for the yeastVery high starting gravity; stalls late with sweet wineFull restart with an alcohol-tolerant yeast
Wild yeast giving upNo yeast added, stalls part wayFull restart with a commercial strain

Temperature

Every yeast has a working range. WineMaker notes that some strains manage around 50°F while others need about 68°F to thrive, and that very warm fermentations can slow, stop or kill the yeast. Wine kit makers such as Winexpert ask you to keep the fermentation area between 68 and 77°F for the whole process. The Lalvin EC-1118 product sheet gives that strain a range of 50 to 86°F (10 to 30°C).

Nutrients

According to WineMaker, the most common nutrient problem is a shortage of nitrogen the yeast can use, and a stressed, hungry yeast often gives itself away with a rotten egg smell of hydrogen sulfide. Fruit wines are more prone to this than grape wines, which is why most fruit wine recipes add yeast nutrient at the start.

Sugar and alcohol

The most common reason for a stall late in fermentation is alcohol. If the must started with more sugar than the yeast can turn into alcohol, it stops with sugar left. WineMaker suggests checking any must above about 24°Brix (a gravity of roughly 1.100) against the yeast’s alcohol tolerance before you pitch, and diluting with water if needed. Our guide on how to make wine stronger covers yeast alcohol limits, and the sugar calculator helps you avoid overshooting.

How to Fix a Stuck Fermentation: Start Simple

1. Warm it up, slowly

Move the fermenter to a room at about 68 to 70°F, or wrap it, and let it warm over a day. WineMaker warns against warming or cooling quickly, which can further damage the yeast that is still alive. If it starts again, leave it alone.

2. Rouse the yeast

For a sluggish carboy fermentation, WineMaker suggests removing the airlock and swirling the carboy or stirring with a sanitized spoon to get the yeast back into suspension. Early in fermentation, a little air helps, because yeast needs oxygen to grow.

3. Add yeast nutrient

WineMaker gives diammonium phosphate (DAP) at about 1 gram per gallon, or a complete nutrient such as Fermaid K or Fermaid O at 1 to 2 grams per gallon. Fermentation should pick up within a day if nitrogen was the problem. Use less late in fermentation, when there is little sugar left for the yeast to use it on.

4. Re-pitch if it was a cold or sulfite problem

If warming did not wake it, WineMaker says it is usually safe to add a fresh pack of the same yeast. If there is still no activity after about two days, move to the full restart.

How to Restart a Stuck Fermentation (Full Restart)

When alcohol, wild yeast or toxins from the first fermentation are to blame, dropping a fresh packet into the wine rarely works, because new yeast cannot cope with alcohol it has not adapted to. The full restart builds a small, vigorous starter and feeds it the stuck wine in stages. These are WineMaker’s rates, with our arithmetic for 1 and 5 gallon batches.

StepRate1 gallon5 gallons
Yeast hulls, 24 to 48 hours before (optional), then rack off1 g/gal1 g5 g
Complete nutrient into the stuck wine (only if above about 3°Brix, roughly 1.012)0.5 g/gal0.5 g2.5 g
Restart container: stuck wine plus an equal amount of unchlorinated water5% of volume eachabout 6 oz of each1 quart of each
Go-Ferm rehydration nutrient, in 20 times its weight of 110°F water, cooled to 104°F1.25 g/gal1.25 g in 25 mL6.25 g in 125 mL
EC-1118 or another alcohol-tolerant yeast, stirred into the Go-Ferm water, 15 to 20 minutes1 g/gal1 g5 g (one 5 g sachet)
  1. Check that the yeast mixture and the restart container are within 18°F (10°C) of each other; if not, add a little of the restart mixture to the yeast and stir.
  2. Stir the yeast into the restart container and wait 20 to 30 minutes.
  3. Add stuck wine equal to 10% of the batch to the container. Wait 20 to 30 minutes.
  4. Add 20% of the batch. Wait 20 to 30 minutes. Repeat three more times.
  5. Add the rest of the stuck wine, fit the airlock, and keep it warm.

EC-1118 is the yeast WineMaker names alongside Uvaferm 43 for this job; Lallemand lists its alcohol tolerance at 18%. Our wine yeast guide compares it with other strains.

Restart supply
Lalvin EC-1118 Wine Yeast, 10 pack Editor's Choice
Fermax Yeast Nutrient, 1 lb
Fermaid O Yeast Nutrient, 2 oz
North Mountain Supply Go-Ferm, 3 oz
Product Lalvin EC-1118 Wine Yeast (10 Pack) - Sold by CAPYBARA Distributors Inc. FERMAX Yeast Nutrient 1 lb Fermaid O Yeast Nutrient 2 oz (56.7 g) - Sold by CAPYBARA Distributors Inc. North Mountain Supply Go-Ferm Yeast Rehydration Nutrient - 3 oz Jar
Job in a restart Restart yeast Nutrient for the stuck wine Complete organic nutrient Rehydration nutrient for the restart yeast
Maker's rate 5 g sachets 1 tsp per gallon before fermentation 20 g/hL twice during fermentation See jar
Key fact Alcohol tolerance 18% (Lallemand) Improves speed and completeness of fermentation (maker) Yeast-derived organic nitrogen, no DAP (maker) Helps a faster start and fewer sulfur smells (maker)
Price tier $ $ $ $
Buy Check price Check price Check price Check price

Editor's Choice

Lalvin EC-1118 Wine Yeast, 10 pack

Job in a restart
Restart yeast
Maker's rate
5 g sachets
Key fact
Alcohol tolerance 18% (Lallemand)
Price tier
$
Check price

Fermax Yeast Nutrient, 1 lb

Job in a restart
Nutrient for the stuck wine
Maker's rate
1 tsp per gallon before fermentation
Key fact
Improves speed and completeness of fermentation (maker)
Price tier
$
Check price

Fermaid O Yeast Nutrient, 2 oz

Job in a restart
Complete organic nutrient
Maker's rate
20 g/hL twice during fermentation
Key fact
Yeast-derived organic nitrogen, no DAP (maker)
Price tier
$
Check price

North Mountain Supply Go-Ferm, 3 oz

Job in a restart
Rehydration nutrient for the restart yeast
Maker's rate
See jar
Key fact
Helps a faster start and fewer sulfur smells (maker)
Price tier
$
Check price

How to Prevent a Stuck Fermentation

  • Measure the starting gravity and match it to your yeast’s alcohol tolerance.
  • Keep the temperature steady in the yeast’s range; avoid cold garages and sunny windows.
  • Add yeast nutrient to fruit and honey musts, which are often short of it.
  • Wait 24 hours after sulfiting fresh fruit before adding the yeast; see our Campden tablet guide.
  • Pitch a healthy dose of cultured wine yeast, rehydrated as the packet says, rather than relying on wild yeast.

Keep these on hand

A spare sachet of EC-1118 and a jar of nutrient fix most stalled batches; Go-Ferm is for a full restart.

  1. 1Restart yeast

    Lalvin EC-1118 Wine Yeast, 10 pack

    A vigorous strain with an 18% alcohol tolerance per Lallemand, and the one WineMaker names for restarts.

    Check price on Amazon

  2. 2Yeast nutrient

    Fermax Yeast Nutrient, 1 lb

    A general yeast nutrient; the listing gives 1 teaspoon per gallon before fermentation begins.

    Check price on Amazon

  3. 3Rehydration nutrient

    North Mountain Supply Go-Ferm, 3 oz

    The rehydration nutrient used in the full restart protocol, for building a strong starter.

    Check price on Amazon

  4. 4Hydrometer

    Brewer's Elite Hydrometer and Test Jar

    The only reliable way to tell a stuck fermentation from a finished one.

    Check price on Amazon

Confirm it with two hydrometer readings a few days apart, then warm the wine slowly to about 68 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, rouse the yeast by swirling or stirring, and add yeast nutrient. If nothing changes in about two days, do a full restart with a rehydrated, alcohol-tolerant yeast such as EC-1118, fed the stuck wine in stages.
Yes, but how you add it matters. For a stall caused by cold or too much sulfite, a fresh packet of the same yeast often works. When alcohol is the problem, yeast tipped straight into the wine usually fails; rehydrate it and acclimatize it by adding the stuck wine in steps, as in the full restart protocol.
Briefly, yes. Taking it off to stir, take a sample or add nutrient does no harm during active fermentation, because the carbon dioxide protects the wine. Sanitize whatever goes in, put the airlock back promptly, and keep the wine sealed once fermentation slows and there is less gas to shield it.
Rehydrate EC-1118 or a similar strain in Go-Ferm and warm water, mix a starter of a little stuck wine and water, then add the yeast and feed it stuck wine in increasing portions, about 10 percent then 20 percent of the batch every 20 to 30 minutes, before adding the rest. Keep it warm afterwards.
No. A stuck fermentation already has sugar the yeast is not using; adding more raises the potential alcohol and makes the job harder. Only add sugar if the hydrometer shows the wine has actually finished and you want more alcohol, and even then check the yeast's alcohol tolerance first.