Homemade wine guide

How to Use a Hydrometer for Wine

By The MyHomeWine Team · Updated

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A one-gallon glass jug of fermenting wine with an airlock on top
On this page
  1. What a Hydrometer Measures
  2. What You Need
  3. How to Use a Hydrometer for Wine, Step by Step
  4. When to Take a Reading
  5. How to Measure Alcohol Content with a Hydrometer
  6. Temperature Correction
  7. Common Hydrometer Mistakes
  8. How to Tell If Your Hydrometer Is Accurate
  9. Hydrometer vs Refractometer

A hydrometer is a weighted glass float that tells you how much sugar is in your juice and how much of it has turned into alcohol. Knowing how to use a hydrometer for wine is what lets you set the strength of a batch before it starts, prove that fermentation is really finished, and write an honest alcohol figure on the label. The University of Georgia Extension’s Winemaking at Home (C717) calls it a simple and inexpensive instrument that takes the guesswork out of winemaking, and essential for consistent results.

This guide covers the whole routine: what the scales mean, how to take a reading step by step, when to take one, how to turn two readings into alcohol content, and the mistakes that give false numbers.

What a Hydrometer Measures

A hydrometer floats higher in a dense liquid and sinks lower in a thin one. Sugar makes juice denser than water, so a sweet must holds the hydrometer high. As yeast turns the sugar into alcohol, which is lighter than water, the liquid thins and the hydrometer sinks. Reading how far it floats is reading the specific gravity.

Specific gravity

Specific gravity (SG) compares the density of your sample with water. North Dakota State University Extension’s Getting Started With Home Winemaking (FN1638) sets out the landmarks: pure water reads 1.000, must starts at 1.080 or higher, and a finished dry wine can read as low as 0.990. Winemakers say the last three digits out loud, so 1.080 is “ten-eighty” and 0.990 is “nine-ninety”.

The other two scales

Most wine hydrometers are triple-scale. Alongside specific gravity they print:

  • Potential alcohol, the alcohol the sample would reach if all its sugar fermented and the wine finished at 1.000. It is only meaningful on the first reading.
  • Brix (or Balling), the sugar content as a percentage by weight. Grape growers and refractometers use it. Our Brix to specific gravity converter switches between the two.

What You Need

The basic set is a hydrometer and a test jar, a tall narrow cylinder that holds the sample. Add something to draw the sample out of the fermenter: Clemson Cooperative Extension’s basics of home winemaking fact sheet uses a wine thief or a siphon. A thermometer helps with the temperature correction covered below.

Hydrometer kit
Brewer's Elite Hydrometer and Plastic Test Jar Editor's Choice
SOLIGT Triple Scale Hydrometer and Glass Test Jar
Brewing America Glass Test Jar
aichose Brix Refractometer with ATC
Product Brewer’s Elite Hydrometer & Test Jar Combo, Hardcase, Cloth – Triple Scale Specific Gravity ABV Tester- for Wine, Beer, Mead and Kombucha SOLIGT Triple Scale Hydrometer and Glass Test Jar for Wine, Beer, Mead & Cider - ABV, Brix and Gravity Test Kit Brewing America Glass Hydrometer Test Tube Jar & Cylinder Brush - Narrow Flask for Alcohol by Volume Test - Moonshine, Homebrew Beer, Home Wine Making Kits, Borosilicate Glass 3.3 aichose Brix Refractometer with ATC, Dual Scale - Specific Gravity & Brix, Hydrometer in Wine Making and Beer Brewing, Homebrew Kit
What it is Triple-scale hydrometer with test jar Triple-scale hydrometer with test jar Glass test jar only Handheld refractometer
Scales (maker) Specific gravity, potential alcohol, Brix SG 0.99 to 1.17, Brix 0 to 35, alcohol 0 to 20% Not applicable Brix 0 to 32%, SG 1.000 to 1.120
Test jar 250 ml plastic Glass, about 125 ml sample Borosilicate glass, about 125 ml sample Not needed
Also in the box Hard case, cloth Case, brush, cloth, conversion chart Cleaning brush Not stated
Use after fermentation starts ✅ Yes ✅ Yes ✅ Yes, with any hydrometer ❌ Starting reading only
Price tier $ $ $ $
Buy Check price Check price Check price Check price

Editor's Choice

Brewer's Elite Hydrometer and Plastic Test Jar

What it is
Triple-scale hydrometer with test jar
Scales (maker)
Specific gravity, potential alcohol, Brix
Test jar
250 ml plastic
Also in the box
Hard case, cloth
Use after fermentation starts
✅ Yes
Price tier
$
Check price

SOLIGT Triple Scale Hydrometer and Glass Test Jar

What it is
Triple-scale hydrometer with test jar
Scales (maker)
SG 0.99 to 1.17, Brix 0 to 35, alcohol 0 to 20%
Test jar
Glass, about 125 ml sample
Also in the box
Case, brush, cloth, conversion chart
Use after fermentation starts
✅ Yes
Price tier
$
Check price

Brewing America Glass Test Jar

What it is
Glass test jar only
Scales (maker)
Not applicable
Test jar
Borosilicate glass, about 125 ml sample
Also in the box
Cleaning brush
Use after fermentation starts
✅ Yes, with any hydrometer
Price tier
$
Check price

aichose Brix Refractometer with ATC

What it is
Handheld refractometer
Scales (maker)
Brix 0 to 32%, SG 1.000 to 1.120
Test jar
Not needed
Also in the box
Not stated
Use after fermentation starts
❌ Starting reading only
Price tier
$
Check price

We chose these from the hydrometer kits and refractometers available on Amazon when we checked in October 2026, favoring the ones with the widest following among home brewers. Specs come from the manufacturers’ listings. The plastic jar in the first kit is harder to break, the glass jars in the second and third are easier to see through and need about half the sample.

How to Use a Hydrometer for Wine, Step by Step

1. Clean and sanitize

Everything that touches the wine, including the hydrometer, the jar and the wine thief, should be clean and sanitized like the rest of your equipment. A sample is a small batch of wine, and it can carry spoilage into the fermenter if anything goes back in.

2. Draw a sample

Use a wine thief, a sanitized turkey baster or a short siphon to lift enough wine to fill the test jar to about an inch below the rim. With fresh fruit or crushed grapes, strain the sample through a clean cloth first: the University of Georgia’s method measures the sugar of strained juice, because pulp and skins cling to the stem and throw the reading.

3. Lower the hydrometer and spin it

Put the jar on a level surface and lower the hydrometer in by the top of the stem, heavy end first. Clemson’s fact sheet says to spin it lightly as it sinks. The spin knocks off bubbles of carbon dioxide that would otherwise hold it up, which matters most once fermentation has started.

4. Let it settle and read at the surface

The UGA guide says to let the hydrometer ride in the juice until it becomes perfectly still, away from the sides of the jar, and to read the value at the liquid’s surface. Bring your eye level with the liquid. You will see the liquid climb the stem slightly; read the scale where the flat surface of the liquid crosses the stem, not at the top of that curve.

5. Note the temperature

Write down the sample temperature next to the reading. If it is far from the hydrometer’s calibration temperature, correct the number as described below.

6. Record and discard the sample

Write the date, the reading and what you did that day (pitched yeast, racked, added sugar) in a log. Then drink, taste or throw out the sample rather than pouring it back, unless everything it touched was sanitized.

When to Take a Reading

Before the yeast goes in

This first number is the original gravity (OG), and it is the one you cannot get back later. Clemson’s fact sheet says wines should start between 1.070 and 1.100. If your juice is lower, add sugar and measure again; our sugar calculator works out how much.

A few days into fermentation

Foam and a bubbling airlock are not reliable signs. Clemson recommends checking the gravity after three days: if it has dropped from the original reading, the wine is fermenting.

When it is time to rack

NDSU’s FN1638 moves the wine from the primary fermenter into a carboy when the gravity reaches about 1.020 to 1.030. Our guide to fermentation times explains primary and secondary fermentation in more detail.

To confirm fermentation has finished

According to Clemson, most wines ferment to a final gravity of 1.005 to 0.999, and fermentation is complete when the reading is consistent over a three-day period. A very dry wine can go lower, to the 0.990 NDSU mentions. A reading that stops well above 1.005 and does not move usually means a stuck fermentation, not a finished one.

Before bottling

One last reading confirms the wine is stable. Bottling a wine that still has sugar and live yeast can build pressure in the bottle. Our guide to bottling and corking picks up from here.

How to Measure Alcohol Content with a Hydrometer

A hydrometer cannot read alcohol directly in a finished wine, because the alcohol and the leftover sugar pull the reading in opposite directions. What it can do is measure how much sugar disappeared. That is why you need two readings.

The standard homebrew formula, described by Brewer’s Friend in its ABV calculator article as the one most brewing sites use, is:

ABV = (OG − FG) × 131.25

A wine that started at 1.090 and finished at 0.996 is (1.090 − 0.996) × 131.25 = 12.3% alcohol. The same article gives an alternate formula that reports slightly more alcohol for strong wines; the wine ABV calculator shows both.

Using the potential alcohol scale instead

If your hydrometer has a potential alcohol scale, read it at the start and at the end and subtract. A must that shows 12% potential alcohol before fermentation and 0% at the end has made about 12%. The arithmetic is the same idea as the formula, just done on the stem.

Temperature Correction

Liquids get thinner as they warm up, so a warm sample lets the hydrometer sink deeper and reads lower than it should. Every hydrometer is calibrated to read correctly at one temperature. Brewer’s Friend’s hydrometer temperature adjustment calculator notes that older hydrometers are calibrated at 59°F (15°C) and newer ones typically at 68°F (20°C); the calibration temperature is usually printed on the paper scale inside the stem or on the instructions.

You have two options. Bring the sample close to the calibration temperature before reading, which is easy for wine fermenting at room temperature. Or read it as it is, note the temperature, and enter both into a temperature correction calculator such as the Brewer’s Friend one above. Use the corrected number in your log and in the ABV calculation.

Quick Correction Table

For a hydrometer calibrated at 60°F, Craft Beer & Brewing’s hydrometer temperature correction tool gives these adjustments to the specific gravity you read:

Sample temperatureAdjustment to the reading
50°F (10°C)Subtract 0.002
60°F (15.6°C)No correction
70°F (21°C)Add 0.001
80°F (27°C)Add 0.003
90°F (32°C)Add 0.005
100°F (38°C)Add 0.008

So a sample that reads 1.088 at 80°F on a 60°F hydrometer is really about 1.091. If your hydrometer is calibrated at 68°F instead, the corrections near room temperature are smaller; enter the exact numbers in one of the calculators above rather than reusing this table.

Common Hydrometer Mistakes

Reading with bubbles on the stem

Carbon dioxide bubbles act like a life jacket and push the hydrometer up. Spin it, wait, and if bubbles keep forming, let the sample sit for a few minutes before reading.

Letting it touch the side of the jar

A hydrometer leaning on the glass is held in place by friction and gives a false number. Use a jar that is wide enough, fill it high enough, and wait until it floats free.

Reading at the wrong place

Reading from above or at the top of the curved liquid line adds a point or two. Get your eye level with the surface.

Reading pulp or sediment

Solids in the sample make it read heavy. Strain fresh juice, and draw samples from the middle of the fermenter rather than the bottom.

Using a refractometer reading as the final gravity

Wikipedia’s Brix article explains that alcohol has a higher refractive index (1.361) than water (1.333), so a refractometer overstates the sugar in fermenting wine. Keep the refractometer for the first reading and use the hydrometer for the rest.

Calling it finished after one low reading

A single reading can catch a fermentation that is slowing, not stopping. Wait for the same number three days in a row.

How to Tell If Your Hydrometer Is Accurate

Specific gravity is measured against water, so plain water is your reference. Fill the test jar with distilled water at the hydrometer’s calibration temperature and float it: it should read 1.000. If it reads 1.002, every reading you take is two points high, so subtract 0.002. Write the offset on a strip of tape on the case. Check again if the paper scale inside the stem ever looks like it has slipped, because a moved scale shifts every reading.

Hydrometer vs Refractometer

HydrometerRefractometer
Sample neededA test jar full, about 125 to 250 mlA few drops
Before fermentationAccurateAccurate
During and after fermentationAccurate, the standard toolReads high because of alcohol
TemperatureCorrect to the calibration temperatureSelf-corrects if it has ATC
Best useEvery reading in the cellarChecking grapes or fruit before you buy or pick

If you only buy one, buy the hydrometer. A refractometer is a useful second tool for checking the sugar in grapes in the vineyard or at a market without crushing a bucketful.

Our hydrometer pick

One kit covers every reading in this guide. Add a glass jar if you prefer glass, or a refractometer for checking fruit.

  1. 1Hydrometer and test jar

    Brewer's Elite Triple Scale Hydrometer and Plastic Test Jar

    Specific gravity, potential alcohol and Brix on one color-coded scale, with a 250 ml plastic test jar, hard case and cloth, according to the listing.

    Check price on Amazon

  2. 2Glass test jar

    Brewing America Glass Hydrometer Test Jar

    Borosilicate glass jar with a bumper guard and a cleaning brush, designed to use about 125 ml of sample instead of 250 ml, per the maker. Hydrometer not included.

    Check price on Amazon

  3. 3Refractometer

    aichose Brix Refractometer with ATC, Dual Scale

    Reads 0 to 32% Brix and 1.000 to 1.120 specific gravity with automatic temperature compensation, according to the maker. For starting readings only.

    Check price on Amazon

Take one reading before fermentation and one after it has finished, then multiply the difference by 131.25. A batch that went from 1.085 to 0.995 has about 11.8% alcohol. A single reading of a finished wine cannot tell you its strength, because the starting sugar is no longer there to measure.
The usual ones are reading with gas bubbles clinging to the stem, letting it rest against the jar, reading from above rather than at eye level, measuring a warm sample without correcting it, and trusting a refractometer after fermentation starts. Each one moves the result by a few points, which is enough to misjudge alcohol.
Float it in distilled water at its calibration temperature, usually 59 or 68 degrees Fahrenheit. It should read exactly 1.000. Any difference is the offset to add or subtract from every future reading. Repeat the check if the instrument has been dropped or the paper scale inside looks loose.
In a sample poured into a test jar on a level surface, not straight into the fermenter. Floating it in the bucket risks contamination and breakage, and foam on a fermenting batch makes the scale hard to see. Between uses, keep it dry in its case so the glass stem is protected.
Yes, if the sample container is tall and narrow enough for the hydrometer to float freely without touching the bottom or sides. A sanitized tall glass, a narrow vase or a graduated cylinder all work. What matters is enough depth for the hydrometer to float clear and a straight side so you can read the surface at eye level.